My goal is to be unique in the sense of my shop culture, the product I carry, and my emotions towards anyone walking in the door. I can’t stand shops (rather stores) where you are mocked for riding a bike under $1,000.00 in your street clothes. I fully understand that ‘normal’ people ride bikes as well, do not have the winning lottery numbers each week, and are looking for a down to earth environment with excellent service. I preform 99% of the work done myself, I answer the phone, I sweep the floors, I build the bikes, I shake your hand and ask your name, I am your contact if something goes wrong. I prefer it this way… yes it is a lot of work but anything worth doing is.
While my store was founded and is still deeply rooted in the restoration of used bicycles, I have also began selling new bikes of all types as well. I’ve elected to retain the Old Bikes Belong (OBB) name because they do in fact belong. Often I take in trades of older bikes for brand new bikes or even a used bike for a used bike. The new product I sell is unique, I’m the only dealer in town for most things I sell and I go up and beyond to include more than ‘stock’ options. Often I am adding hydration cages, bar wrap, racks, boxes, etc and only charging the base price. I will also not charge you for my time, advice, or test rides. I will also not try and sell you something you cannot afford!
What I do:
I restore older bikes (including any needed bearing work) do custom builds, trade for your bikes, locate hard to find items, do repair work on your bikes, offer parts, sell new bikes, give advice, chat, talk about how cold or hot the weather is, and generally enjoy what I do. I hope you enjoy the atmosphere at OBB and tell you friends!
Do you sell new bikes?
Yes, I do sell new bikes. My largest and most well known brand is Orbea (from Spain) for all new road bikes, mountain bikes, and hybrids, Brooklyn Cruiser (New York) for all things city bike related, and State Bicycle (Arizona) for single speed builds.
What major brands do you carry?
My major global brand is Orbea. I am also able to order most known brands in the industry and am a listed dealer for most. Chris King, Saris / Power Tap / Cyclopes, Mavic, Shimano, Surly, Origin 8, Zipp, ENVE, Brooks, Sram, Campagnolo, Lizard Skin,Velo Orange and MANY others!
Sizing Guide: (this is a rough guide line, don’t take this as 100% for every person) – Hybrid frames are also much more versatile than road bikes. Newer style road bikes tend to fit larger (IE a 54 in a new bike is = to a 56 in an older bike) due to geometry changes.
Height: 4’8 – 5’2 = 46-51CM Road Frame / 13′ -14′ Inch Hybrid Frame
Height: 5’2 – 5’7 = 51-54CM Road Frame / 14′ – 16′ Inch Hybrid Frame
Height: 5’7 – 5’11 = 54-58CM Road Frame / 16′ – 19′ Inch Hybrid Frame
Height: 5’11 – 6’3 = 58-61CM Road Frame / 19′ – 21′ Inch Hybrid Frame
You can also think of road bikes (not hybrids) as S, M, L, XL
48-51CM is a S
52-55CM is a M
56-59CM is a L
60+CM is a XL
Small is for someone around 5’3
Medium is for someone around 5’6
Large is for someone around 5’9
X-Large is for someone around 6’1′
Give or take a few inches each way, we can usually make it work for you if you really enjoy the bike! Seats/handle bars adjust easily.
I see there are different types of ‘new’ bikes out there, what are they and how to they differ from older bikes?
Newer bikes (most notably since around 2000) come in carbon frames as well as aluminum. Steel bikes are still produced but they do not account for the very much of the road bike market. Times be a changing. Carbon frames are very fancy and expensive while aluminum frames are also very lite but quite stiff. Newer bikes are also found in ‘performance’ and ‘race’ versions. Basically, all this means is the ‘race’ bike is what you see everyone riding, what your dad rode, and account for a large portion of the road bike market today. Performance bikes offer a slightly less aggressive riding position and are a little more comfortable to ride on if your goal isn’t to beat your buddy Ron up the hill but to enjoy the pretty tree on the side of the road. Older bikes are very different and explained below.
What does Touring, Sport Touring, and Racing mean? (only pertains to older bikes)
In effect, EVERY bike is different. That is why I tell everyone that comes in the shop to ride every bike in their size/selection set. By about the 3rd bike they have found the winner. However, back to the question. Most bikes are sport touring, that is they are not super aggressive racing machines that make most uncomfortable, but are also not grandpas grocery getter. Touring bikes are built to carry stuff (for touring), have extended stays (for carrying stuff), braze ons for racks (for carrying stuff), and a third lower gear (to carry all that stuff). They also tend to have heavier brakes (I bet you can figure out why!). Racing bikes are just like sport cars, fast and harsh. Sport touring bikes are general lets-have-fun-riding-bikes style bikes. There was a fair amount of wit in this answer, but it remains true!
What are the differences between steel wheels and alloy wheels? (only pertains to older bikes)
Steel wheels are steel and chrome plated. This is a mirror smooth surface that shines. It is also heavy. Steel wheels (due to the mirror surface) do not stop well in rain. Rub a piece of rubber against your mirror at home and then wet it. Repeat the test and you’ll see the difference. The only time steel wheels are found on bikes are the lower end models. They are cheaper of course and do work well when its dry. However, I suggest alloy wheels if your budget permits.
Alloy wheels are aluminum and weigh less than steel wheels. They are also not finished with any type of chrome so they stop in rain just as well as dry. They are a natural silver color (again, aluminum) and most often accompanied by quick release hubs.
What type of bike do I want? (generally speaking)
- Road bikes are generally fitted with a drop style bar (curved down bar) that features multiple aggressive riding positions. The rider maintains a more ‘bent over’ form while on the bike, allowing speeds and agility to increase easily. Smaller width tires are also common along with multiple gears to allow the rider a wide selection of speed options for varying terrain. This bikes should be limited to pavement use.
“A Male Road Bike” – is a bike with the top bar running straight across the top of the bike. This bar has zero relation regarding the gender of a future rider, so ladies feel free to inquire about anything you see here. If you don’t feel comfortable lifting your leg above/across the top bar, check out the female/drop bar sections under the ‘Bikes’ tab above.
“A Ladies’ Bike” – is a bike with the top bar running down as opposed to across the top. This bar being lower allows the bike to render a ‘step through’ effect to the rider, rendering it popular among skirt/dress wearers in the past.
- Hybrid bikes feature a more up right riding position. This position allows the rider to see their surroundings easier while maintaining comfort on the seat. These bikes also feature a strong frame, wider/beefier tires, and several gear options. These are ideal for path use, small off road use, and any urban commuting area. However, road bikes are faster so make sure and think about where the bike is actually going to be used.
– Mountain bikes are for off road use and are usually found with front suspension (sometimes rear as well), rough trail use tires, and a more beefy/tall feel to them.
– Cruiser bikes are basically road bikes fitted with fenders and curved back handle bars.
– SS/Fixie bikes are a very simple single speed bike with a flip flop rear hub for single speed use on one side and fixed gear riding on the other. These tend to use only a front brake (rear brakes are still available) and are great for around town riding.
Warranty, Exchange, and Returns:
– All used bikes sold come with a 100 day parts and labor warranty. This is intended to cover my ‘restoration’ of a used bicycle. If a ‘part’ (cable, chain, derailleur, crank, pedal, etc) and/or my ‘labor’ (basically if I goofed something up) fails – I will fix it. This also covers tuneups/adjustments/etc. This does not include the rider running over sharp objects resulting in flat tires, hitting trees and bending the frame, or anything of the sort. To make myself very clear, if you get a flat tire or bend/crack the frame I am not responsible. If you leave the bike outside in a hurricane, bend the wheels, or abuse it in anyway, sorry. I will gladly accept responsibility for my faults but what you do with the bike on your time is yours.
- All new bikes come with several different manufacture based warranties and differ from brand to brand and from components to frames. Usually this warranty is something like one year general warranty and lifetime frame warranty both for the original owner. If you buy a new bike from me I will preform all maintenance required (generally speaking a ‘tuneup’) for the original owner for one year.
Exchanges: If you buy a bike and are unhappy with it for any reason or simply wish to up/downgrade, I offer full price paid back towards the purchase of a different bike within 7 days of original purchase.
– Returns: There is a 25% ‘restocking’ fee for a returned bike.
Do you ship bikes?
I will gladly ship any bike you see on the website to any location in the Continental United States! I will also be glad to package your bike in a new bike box for any reason, such as online sale. I also sell new bike boxes (54x28x8).
What is done to the used bikes?
When I receive a bike it is often in rough condition due to setting, in most cases, 15-25 years. I first take everything off the bike that is trash (old tires, old foam on the bars, ratted seats, rusty chains, frayed cables, etc) and then inspect the bike to see what it needs. This includes checking the bearings, the brakes, the shifters/derailleurs, etc. If it needs anything I fix it. 98% of the time this means at minimum a bike gets new tires/tubes, new bar wrap, a tuneup front to rear which trues the wheels, checks the brakes, lining up the wheelset, bars, and seat, adjusts the gears, tightens bolts, etc. In more extreme cases of aging the bottom bracket is pulled out and regreased, new cables are installed, new chain lined up, and brakes changed. Then each bike gets a hand cleaning and polish so it does, indeed, shine like new. Would you want to buy a used car with dirt and trash on it from the previous owner? I wouldn’t. I wouldn’t want my bike to look like it just spent 20 years in your parents garage either. If you’re going to spend money on a new ride, get one that looks as good as it rides.
How many bikes do you have?
In total I have hundreds, but I keep around 125 in the shop ready to sell. When one goes out the door I pull another from the back and replace it. I try to have at min 5-6 of each size over different price ranges.
Is everything online? Really?
Yes! I update the website daily during the busy season. If its online its for sale. If its in the shop its online. If its online its in the shop! I personally love the internet and using it to shop whenever I want. I like having questions answered without feeling like an idiot, I like looking at pictures, I like being able to show my friends without having to drive to a store. I’ve designed my store and website around people like me.
Have more questions? Feel free to text/email me! Surf on over to the contact page and you will find what you seek.
Where do you get your bikes?
My bikes come from all over the world and the US. Most come from private collectors who are thinning their collection, estate sales, craigs list, local traders, trade ins, etc. I do quite a bit of driving for select bikes and I also sell/ship online weekly. You can be sure though that the dirty guy driving around with scrap on the back of his truck isn’t me.
Do you take trade ins?
Yes! I trade for anything of quality (If you see the word Huffy on your bike, leave it be)
Do you work on newer bikes?
If it has two wheels I’ll be glad to work on it for you!
Do you sell parts and accessories?
While I may not have an entire store dedicated to every obscene bike part known to man, I stock common parts and accessories. Bar wrap, helmets, mirrors, tools, grips, tubes, tires, locks, fenders, racks, derailleurs, shifters, seats, seat posts, pedals, wheels, clothing, computers, etc.
Do you take credit cards?
Yes, Discover, American Express, Mastercard, and Visa.
What do you charge?
Shop prices are based on an hourly wage of $80 dollars per hour for labor. This breaks down into 6 minute intervals of $8 dollars. Thus simple things such as quick adjustments, changing a tire/tube, changing a chain, breaks, etc. ring up as $8.
Typical tune ups: These run $50 and include checking all nuts and bolts, truing wheels, adjusting gears and breaks, airing up tires, checking chain line, safety check/inspection, lubrication, etc.
Overhauls: Are based on time but typically run about $100 for labor. An overhaul includes all bearing systems cleaned and regreased.
Cleaning: Also based on time and typically run about $50. No, I will not ‘just wipe it down a little bit’. If I do something, I do it right.
Full restorations: Subject to the same hourly wage, but plan on 2-3 hours at minimum plus any new parts. The end product will be near perfect except for any paint imperfections (as I don’t do paint work)
How do you sleep at night with such high prices?
Personally, I think my prices are very fair. I also believe there is great value in my services and products (the bikes) offered. For example, if you buy an old beater on craigs list for $100 bucks and then take it to any shop for the basics (tune up, new tires, etc.) the ticket will run AT LEAST ~$150 dollars. While you may only have $250 dollars in a bike, it may not be the right bike and it might have needed much more than the basics. Does it fit? Does it have a warranty? Do you feel safe riding it? Is there a person behind the counter to ask questions to?
While I may be young, I believe in service. You aren’t buying a product from me – a restoration cannot be made out of thin air and likewise knowledge isn’t learned overnight. The same bike may not be found again for months, sometimes years. If the same bike is found, I can promise you they will still be different. With that said, keep an open mind with what you’re buying, consider the amount of time and work put into it, and feel free to ask questions. In the end, I want that bike (your bike) to last another 25+ years!